Long wave runup on random beaches

Details Long wave runup on random beaches Long wave runup on random beaches

2011-07-07

arxiv.org/abs/1107.1304v3

Physical Review Letters 107 (2011) 184504

Physics

Classical Physics

10 pages, 7 figures, 1 table. Other author's papers can be downloaded at http://www.lama.univ-savoie.fr/~dutykh/

Scientific paper

10.1103/PhysRevLett.107.184504

The estimation of the maximum wave sunup height is a problem of practical importance. Most of the analytical and numerical studies are limited to a constant slope plain shore and to the classical Nonlinear Shallow Water (NSW) equations. However, in nature the shore is characterized by some roughness. In order to take into account the effects of the bottom rugosity various ad-hoc friction terms are usually used. In this paper we study the effect of the roughness of the bottom on the maximum runup height. A stochastic model is proposed to describe the bottom irregularity and its effect is quantified using Monte-Carlo simulations. For the discretization of the NSW equations we employ modern finite volume schemes. Moreover, the results of the random bottom model are compared with the more conventional approaches.

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