Wave energy asymmetry in shallow bays

Details Wave energy asymmetry in shallow bays Wave energy asymmetry in shallow bays

Dec 2010

adsabs.harvard.edu/cgi-bin/nph-data_query?bibcode=2010georl..3724601f&link_type=abstract

Geophysical Research Letters, Volume 37, Issue 24, CiteID L24601

Physics

Geophysics

Marine Geology And Geophysics: Littoral Processes, Oceanography: Physical: Surface Waves And Tides (1222), Oceanography: General: Coastal Processes

Scientific paper

Storm surges along the coastline of the United States are often driven by along-shore winds triggering cross-shore Ekman transport. Here we show that this mechanism creates ideal conditions for large wave events in the shallow bays characterizing much of the Atlantic and Gulf of Mexico coastlines. A positive feedback enhances wave formation during along-shore wind events, affecting the spatial distribution of waves and wave-forced erosion in shallow bays at a continental scale.

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