Relaxation time effects of wave ripples on tidal beaches

Physics

Scientific paper

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Oceanography: Physical: Sediment Transport (1862), Oceanography: Physical: Nearshore Processes, Oceanography: Physical: Surface Waves And Tides (1222), Oceanography: Physical: Turbulence, Diffusion, And Mixing Processes (4490), Oceanography: Physical: Instruments And Techniques

Scientific paper

Seabed roughness due to wave ripples is a key factor in controlling sediment transport processes in the nearshore zone. Roughness is commonly considered a function of the ripple geometry, which in turn, can be predicted from sediment and hydrodynamic parameters. Existing ripple predictors consider the bed morphology to be in equilibrium with the hydrodynamics, whereas recent laboratory measurements show that the time scale for ripple development is of the order of tens of minutes to hours. Here we show that wave ripples on tidal beaches are significantly affected by relaxation time effects, with ripple height and length progressively increasing during the rising tide and remaining constant during the falling tide. Moreover, we examine the ripples in the context of existing empirical models and suggest how the temporal evolution over a tidal cycle may be predicted.

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