Physics – Geophysics
Scientific paper
Nov 2003
adsabs.harvard.edu/cgi-bin/nph-data_query?bibcode=2003georl..30uoce4f&link_type=abstract
Geophysical Research Letters, Volume 30, Issue 21, pp. OCE 4-1, CiteID 2119, DOI 10.1029/2003GL017760
Physics
Geophysics
9
Oceanography: Physical: Nearshore Processes, Hydrology: Geomorphology (1625), Oceanography: Physical: Sediment Transport, Marine Geology And Geophysics: Littoral Processes
Scientific paper
The 1D diffusion equation for the dynamics of the coastline is revisited. It is found that the classical evaluation of the diffusivity coefficient over-predicts it by a factor ranging from 1.25 up to infinity since the diffusivity may become zero while the classical prediction is always positive. The over-prediction depends on wave steepness and wave incidence angle. It is larger for swell than for sea waves and it increases with increasing angle. For moderate angles it can easily be about a factor 10. Negative diffusivity occurs in case of large angles, consistent with the large angle morphodynamic instability.
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