Physics
Scientific paper
Oct 1988
adsabs.harvard.edu/cgi-bin/nph-data_query?bibcode=1988rspsa.419..323t&link_type=abstract
Proceedings of the Royal Society of London. Series A, Mathematical and Physical Sciences, Volume 419, Issue 1857, pp. 323-335
Physics
1
Scientific paper
Some simple general properties of wave breaking are deduced from the known behaviour of surface gravity waves in deep water, on the assumption that breaking occurs in association with wave groups. In particular we derive equations for the time interval, τ, between the onset of breaking of successive waves: τ = T/|1-(c\cdot c_g)/c^2|, and for the propagation vector c_b (referred to as the 'wave-breaking vector') of the position at which breaking, once initiated, will proceed: c_b = c(1-frac{c\cdot c_g}/{c^2})+c_g. Here c is the phase velocity, and c_g the group velocity, of waves of period T. Interfacial waves, internal gravity waves, inertial waves and planetary waves are considered as particular examples. The results apply not only to wave breaking, but to the movement of any property (e.g. fluid acceleration, gradient Richardson number) that is carried through a medium in association with waves. One application is to describe the distribution, in space and time, of regions of turbulent mixing, or transitional phenomena, in the oceans or atmosphere.
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