The Relationship Between Sediment Properties and Sedimentation Patterns on a Macrotidal Gravel Beach over a Semi-lunar Tidal Cycle.

Mathematics – Logic

Scientific paper

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1862 Sediment Transport (4558), 1894 Instruments And Techniques: Modeling, 4558 Sediment Transport (1862)

Scientific paper

Detailed measurements of profile and sediment dynamics have been obtained from a macrotidal gravel barrier beach in southern England. Surface and sub-surface sediment samples, beach profiles, and disturbance depths were taken from the intertidal zone on consecutive low tides over semi-lunar tidal cycles, along with continuous wave and tide measurements. Results from two separate field surveys are presented, representing 26 and 24 consecutive low tides, respectively. A combination of Canonical Correlation Analysis (CCA) and Empirical Orthogonal Function (EOF) analysis was used to identify a number of consistent relationships in morphological and sedimentological variables not readily apparent using ordinary correlations. The disadvantage of such statistical models is that the relationships obtained cannot be expressed in physically meaningful units, which does limit its utility in physical-numerical modelling. However, the results reveal some interesting relationships between gravel beachface sedimentology and morphological change. For example, beachface morphology and sedimentology are more similar at a given spatial location over time than over space (cross-shore) at any individual time. Subsurface sedimentology over the depth of disturbance indicates that the beach step can be traced through the sediment characteristics. Indeed, the study suggests that gravel beachface sedimentology is 'slaved' to morphological change rather than vice-versa; and that the relationship becomes more evident as secondary morphological features develop on the beachface. The results imply that median sediment size and geometric sorting are suitable parameters for detecting such relationships. Strong hysteresis over space was present in the EOF modes associated with the most variance in the data sets, for both sediment size and sorting. Statistically significant relationships were found between the temporal modes of (absolute) size/sorting and net sedimentation associated with the largest variance in the non-decomposed respective data sets. Finally, significant relationships were found between a suite of measured hydrodynamic time-series and pairs of significantly correlated morpho-sedimentary eigenmodes. The techniques used were thus able to objectively demonstrate linear association between morphological and sedimentological change on a gravel beachface over a semi-lunar tidal cycle; and also that simultaneous changes in each could be linearly correlated to hydrodynamic forcing.

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