Steepness and spectrum of nonlinear deformed shallow water wave

Details Steepness and spectrum of nonlinear deformed shallow water wave Steepness and spectrum of nonlinear deformed shallow water wave

2006-01-24

arxiv.org/abs/nlin/0601052v1

Nonlinear Sciences

Exactly Solvable and Integrable Systems

13 pages

Scientific paper

Process of the nonlinear deformation of the shallow water wave in a basin of
constant depth is studied. The characteristics of the first breaking are
analyzed in details. The Fourier spectrum and steepness of the nonlinear wave
is calculated. It is shown that spectral amplitudes can be expressed through
the wave front steepness, and this can be used for practical estimations.

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