Observation of very large and steep internal waves of elevation near the Massachusetts coast

Mathematics – Logic

Scientific paper

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Oceanography: Physical: Internal And Inertial Waves, Oceanography: General: Continental Shelf Processes, Oceanography: Physical: Turbulence, Diffusion, And Mixing Processes, Oceanography: Physical: Fine Structure And Microstructure, Oceanography: Biological And Chemical: Ecosystems, Structure And Dynamics

Scientific paper

We report on near-bottom waves of elevation with amplitude nearly half the 25 m water column, very steep, and propagating into a sheared turbulent wave-guide. The waves contained trapped cores transporting parcels of water shoreward. These large waves depart strongly from weakly-nonlinear and weakly-nonhydrostatic conditions and challenge established paradigms. They can also represent an important factor in the across-shore transport of plankton and contaminants.

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