Laboratory Measurements of the Sound Generated by Breaking Waves.

Computer Science – Sound

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Breaking waves dissipate energy, transfer momentum from the wind to surface currents and breaking enhances the transfer of gas and mass across the air-sea interface. Breaking waves are believed to be the dominant source of sea surface sound at frequencies greater than 500 Hz and the presence of breaking waves on the ocean surface has been shown to enhance the scattering of microwave radiation. Previous studies have shown that breaking waves can be detected by measuring the microwave backscatter and acoustic radiation from breaking waves. However, these techniques have not yet proven effective for studying the dynamics of breaking. The primary motivation for the research presented in this thesis was to determine whether measurements of the sound generated by breaking waves could be used to quantitatively study the dynamics of the breaking process. Laboratory measurements of the microwave backscatter and acoustic radiation from two-dimensional breaking waves are described in Chapter 2. The major findings of this Chapter are: (1) the mean square acoustic pressure and backscattered microwave power correlate with the wave slope and dissipation for waves of moderate slope, (2) the mean square acoustic pressure and backscattered microwave power correlate strongly with each other, and (3) the amount of acoustic energy radiated by an individual breaking event scaled with the amount of mechanical energy dissipated by breaking. The observed correlations with the mean square acoustic pressure are only relevant for frequencies greater than 2200 Hz because lower frequencies were below the first acoustic cut-off frequency of the wave channel. In Chapter 4 a model of the sound produced by breaking waves is presented which uses the sound radiated by a single bubble oscillating at its linear resonant frequency and the bubble size distribution to estimate the sound spectrum. The model generates a damped sinusoidal pulse for every bubble formed, as calculated from the bubble size distribution. (Copies available exclusively from MIT Libraries, Rm. 14-0551, Cambridge, MA 02139-4307. Ph. 617 -253-5668, Fax 617-253-1690.) (Abstract shortened with permission of school.).

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