Infrasound from large surf

Computer Science – Sound

Scientific paper

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Oceanography: Physical: Nearshore Processes, Oceanography: Physical: Surface Waves And Tides (1222), Oceanography: Physical: Instruments And Techniques, Oceanography: Physical: Air/Sea Interactions (0312, 3339)

Scientific paper

Simultaneous infrasonic, visual, and ocean-bottom pressure sensor observations of large swells on the island of Kauai and small to medium-sized surf on the island of Hawaii yielded a clear relationship between breaking wave height and low-frequency atmospheric sound amplitudes in the 1-20 Hz frequency range. These experiments confirmed that infrasound can be generated by barreling waves as well as by waves crashing against rocky shorelines and exposed ledges. As will be demonstrated in a companion paper, breaking wave period may also be extracted from infrasound data. The results of these experiments demonstrate that low-frequency sound may be used for real-time estimates of the amplitude, period, and spatial distribution of surf in the littoral zone, with a potential application to the identification of breaking wave types.

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